![]() I got them for 6.53 ea on Digikey, but they have a perfect 3 ICs for every 8 (12-pin) tubes. The chips themselves were relatively expensive. I looked up the serial to parallel chip and was surprised that it can hand the voltage, so you don't need to worry about the above. I guess that spec was designed for circuits that relied on those soviet chips. ![]() I think I saw something like that in the spec sheets for the tubes, something about a maximum pre-bias voltage up to 120v, but I didn't understand why you'd even need to mention that. The voltage difference between the voltage and the ground provided to the chip wasn't 170v but instead was enough that the lower "ground" voltage wouldn't be enough for the current to jump to the anode. I'll look into that that for a second run (I actually ordered the boards this morning since I thought my post here got buried, oops). That's genius! I never would have considered to use literal negative space as a way to further isolate the boards. not sure if that's a good idea though, nor do I know what to do if the port only allows 2.5W. I plan on exploring if I can power this over USB C since the max specs would allow 7.5W. I tried giving the +HV traces at least 50mils in clearance, which I've read is a good thing to do. +HV, GND, and 5V are 20mil traces, everything else is 10mils. ![]() I am aware that 170V is dangerous and that I should take caution with those rails. I intend to provide 170V to the +HV rail. These nixie tubes each draw 3mA (1.5mA min, 3.5mA max). The front of the board will be facing downwards, attached to the other board with the jump The nixie tubes go on the bottom of this board. The other board would contain the mcu that would control the ICs on this board and the power transformer. This board is relatively simple, handling tube power and the HV 32-bit serial to parallel open-drain output ICs. I've read the wiki and tips (I can't say enough how thankful I am that there so many resources for designing PCBs), but by all means I am considered a beginner (for everything: reading/writing schematics, board design, etc), so I'd really would appreciate feedback from people who know what they're doing. Instead of giving up, I've decided to design my own PCB instead. There are a bunch of resources (and confirmed working PCBs) for other nixie tubes, but unfortunately I couldn't find one for the ones I've purchased. Hey everyone, I'm interested in building a PCB for building a nixie tube clock using B5441As. Google Drive folder link, containing PDFs of the schematic, all layers, front layer, and back layer. ![]()
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